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Go canoeing
in a
Wayland folding kayak !

70% of the earth's surface is covered by water. You just need to select a folding kayak and go paddling!



Announcements


20/05/17 - Next kayaks show date - Beale Park Boat Show - 2nd - 4th June 2017 at the Folding Concepts stall. Wayland's flagship kayak - the Wayland MkII 550XL SOF will be on display
Show details here



Kayak prices
Kayak prices are shown on the 'Kayaks and Canoes' page. Check with us for the up-to-date prices - all based on current exchange rates.

Prices include VAT, excludes shipping




Factory Price Promise


We will always match the Factory Price

All orders can be placed with ourselves - we will advise the best configuration kayak to meet your needs and create the best customised kayak and accessories for you at the best price.

Should you have been quoted a price that is less than ours, do let us know.

If you are provided with a more competitive quote from any other supplier, we'll do our best to beat the price even if that item is on offer.

All you need to do is provide us with evidence of the price, including delivery to the UK and we'll do the rest. As long-term exclusibe agents for Wayland in the UK, our in-house knowledge and experience of their range and other brands is second-to-none.


Enquiries
No matter which country you are based in, do contact us with your queries. Prices are set in UK Sterling - we will provide quotes in your preferred currency.


Ordering
When you want to order, write to us and we will provide up to date quotes. We will also send you an invoice with relevant payment details etc. Or if you need advice etc, we are more than happy to help with your queries.



Wayland factory upgrade
Due to the Wayland major factory upgrades in 2014/15, there have been many production changes / improvements / additions to the current Wayland range, so many of the photos may show the earlier variants. Photos on the 'Recent Deliveries' page will show the latest variants.

Descriptions on this site are subject to change without prior notice.





Can I paddle anywhere?
In the UK, you need a license to paddle in most of the waterways, rivers, lakes, etc.
BCU membership (Canoe England, Canoe Wales, Scotland Canoe Association and the Canoe Association of Northern Ireland) includes a licence to paddle on 5000km of Britain's waterways and canals.

Not all inland water is open to canoeists, some are privately owned or is bounded by land which is private, so do check beforehand. See Useful Web sites page.

In other countries, do check with your national kayak organisations and waterway / off-shore agencies etc.



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Assembly Guides

Below is a basic sequence of assembly. You could vary slightly some of the sequences to suit your style once you have assembled a few times. Note that the seats and some parts or fittings differ between the various models.

Double seater kayaks - Amazon II 520, Mk II Zoska 500
Photos are of Mk II Zoska 500 Quattro. This particular variant 2011 Mk II Zoska 500 has double deck lines without D-rings, the inner line is bungy rope - this double line is not a standard feature. Also, current Zoska C models are now standard with triple coated black varnish, not dark brown matt coated as shown here. The Zoska / Formoza MG models are dark brown matt coated. Alu fittings are no longer painted over.


Preparation - Identifying and sorting the pieces ....


Long pieces:- top to bottom - rear keel board with gunwales, front keel board with gunwales, stringers and coaming pieces. Rear boomerang, and triangular mast holder.


Coaming / breakwater pieces :-
- The top pair is the rear half of the cockpit coaming, both ends of the wood is square, the aluminum piece on the left accommodates the boomerang and Rib # 6). This end goes at the rear end of the cockpit.
- The bottom pair is the front half of the coaming, the right side end of the wood is set at an angle and this end forms part of the apex of the coaming at the front of the boat. The aluminum on this end has slots which fits over Rib # 2. On the left end in the photo is the aluminum sleeve which is the joint for the two halves.
Not all boats have eye bolts on the coaming - these are anchor points for comfort seats. Amazons with standard seats have holes to bolt backrests on. Another variant of anchor points for comfort seats are D-ring straps which are strapped around the gunwales.


On the other side of the wood are velcro strips - this would be the outside edge of the coaming. The velcro only covers half of the width of the wood, the edge of the velcro is the bottom and this side goes next to the deck. For example, the bottom piece in the photo goes on the starboard side and is the right way up. Also, only one piece of the 4 coaming pieces has a cleat. This cleat, goes on the the starboard side, as most of us are right handed - this is for the rudder lifting line.


On the inner side of the coaming are grooves. The canvas surrounding the cockpit is fitted into this groove. In the above photo, top to bottom - rear port piece, starboard front piece, port front piece, starboard rear piece. (oops we arranged the pieces wrong, we intended to have the port pair at the top and starboard pair at the bottom!!).



Stringers or longerons. There are 4 pairs - one long pair with hooks (fore), one short pair with hooks (aft), one long pair without hooks, one short pair without hooks. The short pair without hooks also has a longer aluminum sleeve. This longer aluminum sleeve must go in the middle of the boat. The hooks hook onto the bow / stern pieces of the keel board. Double seater kayaks are of different lengths, so the sequence would either be (from front to back) long with hooks, short without hooks, long without hooks, short with hooks, OR long hooks, long no hooks, short no hooks, short hooks. What you don't want to happen is have stringer joints right where a cross rib is otherwise the fat part of the stringer will not fit in the rubber grips on the cross rib.


Cross ribs. Recognizing the ribs. The front deck of the kayak is higher, whereas the rear deck is lower and flatter. Ribs are numbered 1 to 7, number 1 being at the front, #7 at the back. The two smallest closed ribs, the left one is #1, the right is #7, the two middle sized closed ribs, the left is #2, the right #6. The open ribs is a bit harder to tell except for Zoska's - the integrated rudder pedals is the middle rib # 4. (Amazon II kayaks do not have integrated rudder pedals). The taller of the two remaining open ribs would be #3. The ribs and keel boards do have numbers on them - it helps just to recognize the pieces without having to refer to the numbers when sorting.


It would be useful to lay out the pieces fairly close to where they would be needed. The triangular mast holder piece goes next to rib#2, the boomerang piece goes next to rib #6.


Air Comfort seats (commando kayaks only, shown above). On the back rest part of the seats are spring loaded hooks - the left hand rear seat has no strap attached to the spring loaded hooks, the right hand front seat has short straps attached to the hooks. This is because the cockpit is narrower at the rear than at the center of the kayak. The front seat goes in front of rib#4, the rear seat goes in front of rib #6.

Comfort seats. These seats have straps and spring loaded hooks as above but can be used together with standard seats. IE placed on top of and strapped to standard seat bottoms.

Standard seats. These seats are bolted to the coaming. The back rests are set to the width of the cockpit of where the seats are supposed to go. In a double seater, the narrower back rest would be at the back, in a triple seater, the narrowest seat would be for the child at the front and the widest seat would be in the middle. In multi-seater kayaks, it is best to mark the back rests once you have correctly determined where they are supposed to go.


Starting with the assembly .....


Start with the bow end. Place both forks into the protruding bolts.


Put in Ribs #1 and #2, starting with the floor clip locks, then the side gunwale clip locks. Then put the bow deck ridge into rib #2 topmost clip lock.


Hook the long bow stringers to the bow piece. Clip the stringers into the rubber pole seats on rib#2. If the stringers keep popping out of the pole seats, not to worry, you can make sure that all stringers are in the pole seats before inflating the sponsons. But take care when sliding the bow / stern sections into the skin - the hanging stringers can get caught in something. Likewise when taking the bow / stern sections out of the skin on disassembly, the stringers can get caught in the sponson sleeves and tear a hole there.
Later, when you connect the rest of the stringers, remember not to rotate the stringers that have hooks if the sections do not join easily - rather only rotate the stringers that do not have hooks.

This completes the bow section for now. Move to the stern section and assemble the stern section in the same way. Once you have mastered assembling the bow / stern frames, there is no reason why you cannot just insert the front half into the skin straight away before building the rear half. Beginners tend to forget to put the stringers on before putting the frame halves in, so by building both halves first, you hopefully may notice something is missing before inserting the frames into the skin!


Now return to the bow section, and pick up the frame by the top of Rib#2. Slide the frame into the skin, making sure that the sponson sleeves are hanging downwards and flat against the sides as you put the frame in. Straighten the bow skin as you home the frame right in as far as you can go. Make sure that the bow deck ridge lines up with the center ridge in the canvas.


Look inside the front half and check that the sponsons are all flat all the way and not twisted. This is the quattro version kayak with two pairs of sponsons. In normal kayaks, the single pair of sponsons occupy the space along the gunwales.

Repeat the same with the rear section - insert the stern frame into the skin by grabbing rib #6.


The frame halves will overlap. Straighten the keel boards so the they line up.


Marry the keel boards and gently push down. If the keel boards pop up, it could be that the ground is uneven, otherwise put one foot on the keel board while you marry the gunwales. If it is difficult to push down the keel boards, check that the frame is in properly at the bow / stern.


The keel board and gunwales should stay in place without popping out. If the keel board still pops up, place a bag under the bow or stern to raise the boat slightly off the ground.


For kayaks where the seats strap directly onto the keel board -
(IE have no standard seats / seat slider brackets screwed to the keel board)
Strap the seats loosely to the keel board in the approximate center between the pairs of clip lock tongues.
The front seat will go between rib # 3 and #4, the rear seat, between rib #4 & 5. Later, once all the frame pieces have been assembled, and before the sponsons are inflated, you then shift the seats to the proper positions and tighten the straps slightly.



Pull the sponson inflation tubes gently out if they are stuck behind the gunwales.

Insert Ribs #3 and #5. Tip - for those starting out for the first time - you can assemble these ribs fairly quickly if you get inside the boat, and use your elbows to push the sides of the kayak outwards whilst positioning the ribs in place. Clip the bottom clip locks first, then the sides.


Fit the middle #4 rib.

Then fit all the stringers. Make sure that the short stringer with the longer metal tube is in the middle of the boat. Remember that you hooked the end stringers at the very beginning of the assembly - now make sure that when you join the rest of the stringers that you do not un-hook the end stringers when you rotate that stringers to join them!



In the repair bag is a sachet with bits and pieces. There should be a pair of stainless steel tubes - this is the stringer joiner.



Coaming assembly.
Start with the starboard coaming pieces. Remember that only the starboard rear half coaming has the cleat and so start with that. Join the front starboard coaming piece to this rear starboard coaming piece. Check that the velcro and the groove on the opposite side matches on the joined pair. The groove on the front end of the coaming goes into the canvas at the rear end of the cockpit.


Slide the joint coaming along the deck, taking care not to scrape the coaming against the cross rib brackets.


Place the front coaming bracket onto the #2 rib fitting


Fit the rear coaming bracket on the #6 rib fitting. If this bracket does not quite fit, adjust the distance at the middle coaming joint.



Place the coaming lugs into the rib brackets and close the clamps.

Do the same for the port side - complete the entire port coaming assembly.


Rear boomerang assembly.
Pull the hypalon flap towards the centre of the kayak. Place the boomerang into the #6 rib fittings. The 2 screws should fit into slots in this rib#6 fitting.


On the other side of the boomerang, hook the hypalon onto the 3 screws. The deck may appear to be loose - this is normal. Once the sponsons are inflated, the skin will be taut and hold down the boomerang piece.


Mast holder assembly
Fit the triangular mast holder on the #2 rib fitting. The bolt for this would be in the repair kit sachet. With Amazon kayaks, there will be different sized bolts - very short ones are for the standard seat bottoms, longest ones are for standard seat backrests.


Final stage assembly
Fit the seats and inflate the sponsons. Standard seats on the Amazons are bolted to the coaming, comfort seats clip onto eyebolts on the coaming or onto D-rings strapped to the gunwales. The sponsons must not be too hard or too soft - ideally as hard as you can comfortably inflate by mouth. This should give you an idea of best sponson pressure if intending to use a pump. Never inflate fully, or too much, one of the sponsons first before doing the other - do the inflation equally in stages.

On your first first few paddling sessions, it is suggested that you leave out the rudder till you become accustomed to the boat.


Rudder system assembly (photo is of Amazon II)

Move aside the safety catch on the rudder blade and pull the rudder pin out. Position the rudder blade onto the rudder bracket and put the rudder pin back in and close the safety catch. The safety catch prevents the rudder pin from sliding upwards during use. Feed the two rudder cables through the holes in the rear boomerang. The rudder lifting cables goes along the deck to the cleat on the starboard coaming. When launching the kayak and returning to shore, (where the water is shallow) the rudder should be in the raised position to prevent damage. When the rudder is down, make sure that when securing the rudder line to the cleat, you tie it so that the rudder is able to freely swing upwards when hitting underwater objects. You may want to mark the rudder lifting line so that you know which is up and which is down!

One useful tip is you tie a loop knot (or attach a ring) in the lifting line so that you can easily hook the line to the cleat - adjusted to have the rudder in the raised position.


Standard rudder pedals assembly (Photo is from Amazon II)
On the rear part of the rudder pedal assembly, there are brackets that clamp over the rudder slider brackets situated on the edges of the keel board. The slider brackets have holes along the length - the pop rivets on the pedal assembly must go into the holes before tightening the wing nut.

Disassembly

Ideally the very first thing you should do is un-plug the sponsons before you start the disassembly process, which is simply done in reverse. See Disassembly Advice / Tips in the previous web page "Assembly".



Please note that Wayland is constantly innovating and improving all products. IE product descriptions on this site is subject to change without prior notice.

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Page last updated 24-May-2017