and Maintenance Guides
Assembly & Disassembly
are slight personal variations in which you can assemble the boat,
but overall the general sequence is the same.
Your first time attempt with a folding kayak will take over an hour, the 2nd
attempt, maybe around 45 minutes, the 3rd attempt will be around
an easy and regular 10-20 minutes
thereafter. With multi-seater kayaks, if you work like a well drilled military
minutes! The world record for a single seater is 4 minutes.
Overview of the assembly sequence:-
The kayak is assembled in 5 basic stages:-
1) Prepare the site. Choose a fairly flat area to assemble the kayak. Sort
the pieces and lay them out so
when needed. Care must be taken if you have kids running about - some frame
pieces can break if stood on, so do place the stringers / longerons smartly
2) Build the frame halves. Assemble the bow and stern frame halves up to the
keel board hinge (do not build beyond the keelboard hinge) -
cross ribs and stringers are connected to the keel board.
3) Frame into the skin. Insert the frame halves into the skin and marry
the frame halves by connecting and pushing the keel board down and the gunwales
outwards. The frame should naturally slide in - if not, there could be snagging,
especially if there are internal hooks for the lifting D-rings / sail rig D-rings.
4) Finish the frame
4a) - Fit the outer pair of cross ribs first and then
the middle cross rib last.
4b) - Fit the stringers / longerons.
4c) - Fit the cockpit side coaming's / breakwaters and rear boomerang. The
multi-seaters have a triangular mast
bracket - this is bolted down.
4d) - Inflate
5) Fit the furniture. Fit the seats, rudder pedals and rudder.
It is recommended that for the first few paddles, leave the rudder
pedals / rudder
Detailed Assembly Guides
This section of the web site is currently 'Work in Progress', so please bear
with us. Pages will be added as soon as we have taken new photos to show
the different assembly
processes. If you need an Assembly Guide, we may have an 'old' PDF version
already available - email us.
Harpoon I 450 / 500XL, Mk II Achilli 450 / 500XL - coming soon
Proximo I - coming soon
Amazon II 520, Mk
II Zoska 520 - available
Mk II Zoska 550 - coming soon
Trojak III+CH 520 / Trojak III+D
520 - coming soon
Amazon II 600XXL, Mk II Zoska
600XXL - coming soon
Ursus IV 700 - coming soon
Assembly advice / tips
- First thing! You should comply with your country’s rules and
regulations for kayaking
safety and use. Ensure that you are licensed or have permission to use the
dam, lake, or stretch of river, waterway, etc.
- Choose flat level ground free of sharp stones, rough ground, etc. In some
areas, using a groundsheet to assemble your kayak on, can be useful.
- When unpacking your new kayak for the first time, make note of the way
all the parts are packed, so that you may re-pack the same way after disassembly.
- To become familiar with your boat quickly, on your first or second assembly
it is recommended that you try complete the frame assembly without
the hull. If you are unfamiliar with folding kayaks this will
help you to learn how everything fits together. This will make things easier
later when you have to make connections inside the hull where it is not
easy to see what is wrong. Completing the frame outside of the hull also
the opportunity to paint
or tape identifying marks on the parts if you think that will help you with
subsequent assemblies. On some model boats, the standard colour coding
system is used, which
or blue for
the rear half, otherwise there are numbers on the ribs and keel board (#1 being
at the front).
- Preparation prior to assembly helps with the efficiency and pleasure in
building your boat. Sort and lay out the frame pieces along side according
to the direction of the unraveled skin.
- Do not 'fight' with the boat by standing up / bending over while trying
to assemble - work with the boat by positioning yourself comfortably and
kneel next to the task on hand where necessary. On some boats, fitting
the cockpit ribs can be difficult becuase the skin may distort the gunwales
(or the ground is uneven) so that the alu tongues on the gunwales do not
quite align with the side clip locks on the cross ribs. Get inside the
and assemble from there. When inside the boat, you can use your elbows
position a cross rib into place.
the sponsons equally in stages (never fully inflate one side then the other
side). The sponsons must not be very hard or very soft. A rough guide is
as hard as you can inflate by mouth. Do let some air out in the middle of
a hot day. If the boat has zipper / velcro hatches, ensure the hatches
when inflating. Also if you have been paddling out in the sun - let some
air out before opening the zippered hatches.
Disassembly advice / tips
Choose a clean area to disassemble! A ground sheet / mesh nylon carpet is
useful if the the location is a sandy beach, or rough and stoney ground,
with bird poo !
- Rivers can be really filthy after floods, or there may be some slime, sea salt,
sand, mud, etc sticking to the hull. Give the hull and deck a quick wipe using
clean water before you start the disassembly. It is important to remove any plant
prevent any alien species from spreading to other rivers, canals, waterways,
- It is never good
idea to pack a wet skin, unless you plan to unpack to dry the skin when you
get home. Plan to make the drying and cleaning process as
part of your disassembly routine. Choosing a sunny spot, and having super
absorbent drying cloths and a bottle of clean water helps. Remove
excess water from inside the boat first (keep boat right side up at all times),
proceed with the disassembly and remove the frame halves out of the skin.
of the hull. If necessary, place two cross ribs inside the hull to keep the
deck off the floor to speed up the drying process, and then return to
cleaning and packing of the rest of the frame.
- Pull all air plugs before dismantling! Trying to disassemble the kayak whilst
the sponsons are inflated is very difficult !
- Ensure that any internal reinforcement hooks for Lifting D-Rings (straps that
hook onto the gunwales) are all unhooked from the frame.
- Ensure that the bow
and stern stringers are securely clamped in the rubber seats prior to extracting
the frame halves from the skin.
- Frame halves should natually slide out without snagging. Possible snag problem
areas are stringers catching into the sponson sleeves, internal hooks catching
onto the frame, or a sponson is twisted right in the front and
caught in the first side ladder frame section.
- The skin should be packed / folded in such a way so that the sponsons is
laid down flat for the entire length.
- (Coming soon)