Wayland folding kayak !
70% of the earth's surface is covered by water.
You just need to select a folding kayak and go paddling!
01/01/19 - Prices updates
Please note that the prices as shown on this website is out of date. We will be updating this site as soon as possible. Current prices can be provided on request
Kayak prices are shown on the 'Kayaks
and Canoes' page. Check with us for the up-to-date
prices - all based on current exchange rates.
include VAT, excludes shipping
will always match the Factory Price
Listed prices are "linked" to the factory's RRP which is set in Euros. From time to time there will be price differences due to the changing Euro / Sterling exchange rates - we will quote you using the current exchange rate. IE listed prices are approximates
All orders can be placed with ourselves - we will advise the best configuration kayak to meet your needs
and create the best customised kayak and accessories for you at the
Should you have been quoted a price that is less than ours, do let
us know. We only sell kayaks that are freshly made to order, never old stock, unless marked as "Used"
If you are provided with a more competitive quote from any
supplier, we'll do our best to beat the price even if that item
is on offer (old stock is strictly excepted).
All you need to do is provide us with evidence of the price,
including delivery and we'll do the rest. As long-term
exclusive agents for Wayland in the UK, our in-house knowledge and experience
of their range and other brands is second-to-none.
No matter which country you are based in, do contact us with your queries. Prices
are set in UK Sterling - we will provide quotes in your preferred currency.
When you want to order, contact us and we will
provide up to date quotes. We will also send you an invoice with relevant payment
details etc. Or if you need advice etc, we are more than happy to help with your
Due to the Wayland major factory upgrades in 2014/15, there have been many
production changes / improvements / additions to the current Wayland range,
so some of the
photos may show the earlier variants. Photos on the 'Recent Deliveries' page shows
latest variants as of that time (Check the photo descriptions - it may have been a custom made request).
Descriptions and inclusive accessories as stated on this site are subject to change without prior notice. See footnotes
Can I paddle anywhere?
In the UK, you need a license to paddle in most of the waterways,
rivers, lakes, etc.
BCU membership (Canoe England, Canoe Wales, Scotland Canoe Association
and the Canoe Association of Northern Ireland) includes a licence
to paddle on 5000km of Britain's waterways and canals.
Not all inland water is open to canoeists, some are privately owned
or is bounded by land which is private, so do check beforehand.
See Useful Web sites page.
In other countries, do check with your national kayak organisations
and waterway / off-shore agencies etc.
Do click the Follow button on our Facebook page to receive updates.
Below is a basic sequence of assembly. You could vary slightly
some of the sequences to suit your style once you have
assembled a few times. Note that the seats and some parts or fittings
differ between the various models.
kayaks - Amazon II 520, Mk II Zoska 500
are of Mk II Zoska 500 Quattro. This particular variant
2011 Mk II Zoska 500 has double deck lines without D-rings, the inner
line is bungy rope - this double line is not a standard feature.
Also, current Zoska
are now standard with triple
coated black varnish, not dark brown matt coated as shown here.
The Zoska / Formoza MG models are dark brown matt coated. Alu fittings
are no longer painted over.
Preparation - Identifying and sorting the pieces ....
Long pieces:- top to bottom - rear keel board with gunwales,
front keel board with gunwales, stringers and coaming pieces.
Rear boomerang, and triangular mast holder.
Coaming / breakwater pieces :-
- The top pair is the rear half of the cockpit coaming, both
ends of the wood is square, the aluminum piece on the left
accommodates the boomerang and Rib # 6). This end goes at
the rear end of the cockpit.
- The bottom pair is the front half of the coaming, the right
side end of the wood is set at an angle and this end forms
part of the apex of the coaming at the front of the boat.
The aluminum on this end has slots which fits over Rib #
2. On the left end in the photo is the aluminum sleeve which
is the joint for the two halves.
Not all boats have eye bolts on the coaming - these are anchor
points for comfort seats. Amazons with standard seats have
bolt backrests on. Another variant of anchor points for
comfort seats are D-ring straps which are strapped around
On the other side of the wood are velcro strips - this would
be the outside edge of the coaming. The velcro only covers
half of the width of the wood, the edge of the velcro
is the bottom and this side goes next to the deck. For
example, the bottom piece in the photo goes on the
side and is the right way up.
piece of the 4 coaming pieces has a cleat. This cleat,
goes on the the starboard side, as most of us are right
handed - this is for the rudder lifting line.
On the inner side of the coaming are grooves. The canvas
surrounding the cockpit is fitted into this groove.
In the above photo, top to
bottom - rear port piece, starboard front piece, port
front piece, starboard rear piece. (oops we arranged
the pieces wrong, we intended to have the port pair at
the top and starboard pair at the bottom!!).
Stringers or longerons. There are 4 pairs - one long pair
with hooks (fore), one short pair with hooks (aft), one
long pair without hooks, one short pair without hooks.
The short pair without hooks also has a longer aluminum
sleeve. This longer aluminum sleeve must go in the middle
of the boat. The hooks hook onto the bow / stern pieces
of the keel board. Double seater kayaks are of different
lengths, so the sequence would either be (from front
to back) long with hooks, short without hooks, long without
hooks, short with hooks, OR long hooks, long no hooks,
short no hooks, short hooks. What you don't want to happen
is have stringer joints right where a cross rib is otherwise
the fat part of the stringer will not fit in the rubber
grips on the cross rib.
Cross ribs. Recognizing the ribs. The front deck of the kayak
is higher, whereas the rear deck is lower and flatter.
Ribs are numbered 1 to 7, number 1 being at the front,
#7 at the back. The two smallest closed ribs, the left
one is #1, the right is #7, the two middle sized closed
ribs, the left is #2, the right #6. The open ribs is
a bit harder to tell except for Zoska's - the integrated
rudder pedals is the middle rib # 4. (Amazon II kayaks
do not have integrated rudder pedals). The taller of
open ribs would be #3. The ribs and keel boards do have
numbers on them - it helps just to recognize the pieces
without having to refer to the numbers when sorting.
It would be useful to lay out the pieces fairly close to
where they would be needed. The triangular mast holder
piece goes next to rib#2, the boomerang piece goes next
to rib #6.
Air Comfort seats (commando kayaks only, shown above). On
the back rest part of the seats are spring loaded hooks
to the spring loaded hooks, the right hand front seat
has short straps attached to the hooks. This is because
the cockpit is narrower at the rear than at the center
of the kayak. The front seat goes in front of rib#4,
the rear seat goes in front of rib #6.
Comfort seats. These seats have straps and spring loaded
hooks as above but can be used together with standard
seats. IE placed on top of and strapped to standard seat
Standard seats. These seats are bolted to the coaming.
The back rests are set to the width of the cockpit of
a double seater, the narrower back rest would be at the
back, in a triple seater, the narrowest seat would be
for the child at the front and the widest seat would
be in the middle. In multi-seater kayaks, it is best
to mark the back rests once you have correctly determined
where they are supposed to go.
Starting with the assembly .....
Start with the bow end. Place both forks into the protruding
Put in Ribs #1 and #2, starting with the floor clip locks,
then the side gunwale clip locks. Then put the bow deck
ridge into rib #2 topmost clip lock.
Hook the long bow stringers to the bow piece. Clip the stringers
into the rubber pole seats on rib#2. If the stringers
keep popping out of the pole seats, not to worry, you
that all stringers are in the pole seats before inflating
the sponsons. But take care when sliding the bow / stern
sections into the skin - the hanging stringers can get
caught in something. Likewise when taking the bow / stern
sections out of the skin on disassembly, the stringers
can get caught in the sponson sleeves and tear a hole
Later, when you connect the rest of the stringers, remember
not to rotate the stringers that have hooks if the sections
do not join easily - rather only rotate the stringers
that do not have hooks.
This completes the bow section for now. Move to the stern
section and assemble the stern section in the same way. Once
you have mastered assembling the bow / stern frames, there
is no reason why you cannot just insert the front half into
the skin straight away before building the rear half. Beginners
tend to forget to put the stringers on before putting
the frame halves in, so by building both halves first, you
hopefully may notice something is missing before inserting
the frames into the skin!
Now return to the bow section, and pick up the frame by the
top of Rib#2. Slide the frame into the skin, making sure
that the sponson sleeves are hanging downwards and flat
against the sides as you put the frame in. Straighten
the bow skin as you home the frame right in as far as
you can go. Make sure that the bow deck ridge lines up
with the center ridge in the canvas.
Look inside the front half and check that the sponsons are
all flat all the way and not twisted. This is the quattro
version kayak with two pairs of sponsons. In normal kayaks,
the single pair of sponsons occupy the space along the
Repeat the same with the rear section - insert the stern
frame into the skin by grabbing rib #6.
The frame halves will overlap. Straighten the keel boards
so the they line up.
Marry the keel boards and gently push down. If the keel boards
pop up, it could be that the ground is uneven, otherwise
put one foot on the keel board while you marry the gunwales.
If it is difficult to push down the keel boards, check
that the frame is in properly at the bow / stern.
The keel board and gunwales should stay in place without
popping out. If the keel board still pops up, place a
bag under the bow or stern to raise the boat slightly
off the ground.
For kayaks where the seats strap directly onto the keel
(IE have no standard seats / seat slider brackets
screwed to the keel board)
Strap the seats loosely to the keel board in the approximate
center between the pairs of clip lock tongues.
The front seat will go between rib # 3 and #4,
the rear seat, between rib #4 & 5. Later,
once all the frame pieces have been assembled, and before
sponsons are inflated, you then shift the seats to the
proper positions and tighten the straps slightly.
Pull the sponson inflation tubes gently out if they are stuck
behind the gunwales.
Insert Ribs #3 and #5. Tip - for those starting out for the
first time - you can assemble these ribs fairly quickly if
you get inside the
and use your elbows to push the sides of the kayak outwards
whilst positioning the ribs in place. Clip the bottom clip
locks first, then the sides.
Fit the middle #4 rib.
Then fit all the stringers. Make sure that the short stringer
with the longer metal tube is in the middle of the boat.
Remember that you hooked the end stringers at the very beginning
of the assembly - now make sure that when you join the rest
of the stringers that you do not un-hook the end stringers
when you rotate that stringers to join them!
In the repair bag is a sachet with bits and pieces. There should
be a pair of stainless steel tubes - this is the stringer joiner.
Start with the starboard coaming pieces. Remember that only
the starboard rear half coaming has the cleat and so start
with that. Join the front starboard coaming piece to this rear
starboard coaming piece. Check that the velcro and the groove
on the opposite side matches on the joined pair. The groove
on the front end of the coaming goes into the canvas at the
rear end of the cockpit.
Slide the joint coaming along the deck, taking care
not to scrape the coaming against the cross rib brackets.
Place the front coaming bracket onto the #2 rib fitting
Fit the rear coaming bracket on the #6 rib fitting. If this
bracket does not quite fit, adjust the distance at the middle
Place the coaming lugs into the rib brackets and close the
Do the same for the port side - complete the entire port
Rear boomerang assembly.
Pull the hypalon flap towards the centre of the kayak. Place
the boomerang into the #6 rib fittings. The 2 screws should
fit into slots in this rib#6 fitting.
On the other side of the boomerang, hook the hypalon onto the
3 screws. The deck may appear to be loose - this is normal.
will be taut and hold down the boomerang piece.
Mast holder assembly
Fit the triangular mast holder on the #2 rib fitting. The bolt
for this would be in the repair kit sachet. With Amazon
kayaks, there will be different sized bolts - very short
ones are for the standard seat bottoms, longest ones are
for standard seat backrests.
Final stage assembly
Fit the seats and inflate the sponsons. Standard seats on the
Amazons are bolted to the coaming, comfort seats clip onto
eyebolts on the coaming or onto D-rings strapped to the gunwales.
The sponsons must not be too hard or too soft - ideally as
hard as you can comfortably inflate by mouth. This should give
you an idea of best sponson pressure if intending to use a
pump. Never inflate fully, or too much, one of the sponsons
first before doing the other - do the inflation equally in
On your first first few paddling sessions, it is suggested
that you leave out the rudder till you become accustomed to
Rudder system assembly (photo is of Amazon II)
Move aside the safety catch on the rudder blade and pull the
rudder pin out. Position the rudder blade onto the rudder bracket
and put the rudder pin back in and close the safety catch.
The safety catch prevents the rudder pin from sliding upwards
during use. Feed the two rudder cables through the holes in
the rear boomerang. The rudder lifting cables goes along the
deck to the cleat on the starboard coaming. When launching
the kayak and returning to shore, (where the water is shallow)
the rudder should be in the raised position to prevent damage.
When the rudder is down, make sure that when securing the rudder
line to the cleat, you tie it so that the rudder is able
to freely swing upwards when hitting underwater objects. You
may want to mark the rudder lifting line so that you know which
is up and which is down!
One useful tip is you tie a loop knot (or attach a ring) in
the lifting line so that you can easily hook the line to the
have the rudder in the raised position.
Standard rudder pedals assembly
(Photo is from Amazon II)
On the rear part of the rudder pedal assembly, there are brackets
that clamp over the rudder slider brackets situated on
the edges of the keel board. The slider brackets have holes
along the length - the pop rivets on the pedal assembly must
go into the holes before tightening the wing nut.
the very first thing you should do is un-plug the sponsons
you start the disassembly process, which is simply done in
reverse. See Disassembly Advice / Tips in the previous web